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Home energy saving tips

Posted by keirperry on August 14, 2013 at 4:25 PM Comments comments (0)

1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. 

As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:

Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy. Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters. Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs. Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs. Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces. At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room. 2. Install a tankless water heater.

Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water.

3. Replace incandescent lights.

The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:

CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs. LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy. LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.4. Seal and insulate your home.

Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess  leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings.

The following are some common places where leakage may occur:

electrical receptacles/outlets; mail slots; around pipes and wires; wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; attic hatches; fireplace dampers; inadequate weatherstripping around doors; baseboards; window frames; and switch plates.Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as: 

Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets.

The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:

low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; anddual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.

Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:

Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.   Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States. Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees. Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged. Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.

Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:

skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks; light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.8. Insulate windows and doors.

About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:

Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option. Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place. Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window. If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.9. Cook smart.

An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:

Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens. Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens. Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame.  Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans. Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically. When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.  10. Change the way you do laundry.

Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load. Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean.Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry. If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks. Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. 

From 10 Easy Ways to Save Energy in Your Home - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/increasing-home-energy-efficiency-client.htm#ixzz2byfNzewI


Holiday Safety

Posted by keirperry on November 22, 2012 at 4:35 PM Comments comments (0)

Holiday Lights

Maintain Your Holiday Lights Inspect holiday lights each year for frayed wires, bare spots, gaps in the insulation, broken or cracked sockets, and excessive kinking or wear before putting them up. Use only lighting listed by an approved testing laboratory.

Do Not Overload Electrical Outlets Do not link more than three light strands, unless the directions indicate it is safe. Connect strings of lights to an extension cord before plugging the cord into the outlet. Make sure to periodically check the wires – they should not be warm to the touch.

Do not leave holiday lights on unattended!

Holiday Decorations Use Only Nonflammable Decorations All decorations should be nonflammable or flame-retardant and placed away from heat vents. If you are using a metallic or artificial tree, make sure it is flame retardant.

Don't Block Exits Ensure that trees and other holiday decorations do not block an exit way. In the event of a fire, time is of the essence. A blocked entry/exit way puts you and your family at risk.

Never Put Wrapping Paper in the Fireplace Wrapping paper in the fireplace can result in a very large fire, throwing off dangerous sparks and embers that may result in a chimney fire.

Candle Care Avoid Using Lit Candles Consider using battery-operated flameless candles, which can look, smell and feel like real candles.

If You Do Use Lit Candles Make sure candles are in stable holders and place them where they cannot be easily knocked down. Keep candles at least 12 inches from anything that can burn. Never leave a room or go to bed with candles burning.

Never Put Lit Candles on a Tree Do not go near a Christmas tree with an open flame – candles, lighters or matches.

Selecting a Tree for the HolidaysNeedles on fresh trees should be green and hard to pull back from the branches, and the needles should not break if the tree has been freshly cut. The trunk should be sticky to the touch. Old trees can be identified by bouncing the tree trunk on the ground. If many needles fall off, the tree has been cut too long and, has probably dried out, and is a fire hazard.

Caring for Your Tree

Do not place your tree close to a heat source, including a fireplace or heat vent. The heat will dry out the tree, causing it to be more easily ignited by heat, flame or sparks. Be careful not to drop or flick cigarette ashes near a tree. Do not put your live tree up too early or leave it up for longer than two weeks. Keep the tree stand filled with water at all times.

Disposing of Your Tree

Never put tree branches or needles in a fireplace or wood-burning stove. When the tree becomes dry, discard it promptly. The best way to dispose of your tree is by taking it to a recycling center or having it hauled away by a community pick-up service.

Selecting a Tree for the Holidays

Needles on fresh trees should be green and hard to pull back from the branches, and the needles should not break if the tree has been freshly cut. The trunk should be sticky to the touch. Old trees can be identified by bouncing the tree trunk on the ground. If many needles fall off, the tree has been cut too long and, has probably dried out, and is a fire hazard.

Caring for Your TreeDo not place your tree close to a heat source, including a fireplace or heat vent. The heat will dry out the tree, causing it to be more easily ignited by heat, flame or sparks. Be careful not to drop or flick cigarette ashes near a tree. Do not put your live tree up too early or leave it up for longer than two weeks. Keep the tree stand filled with water at all times.

Disposing of Your TreeNever put tree branches or needles in a fireplace or wood-burning stove. When the tree becomes dry, discard it promptly. The best way to dispose of your tree is by taking it to a recycling center or having it hauled away by a community pick-up service.



Selling your home ?

Posted by keirperry on October 25, 2012 at 8:00 PM Comments comments (0)

Selling your home? 

Here is a hamdy check list from CMHC on preparing you home for sale.


6 Facts about Clothes Dryer Exhaust Safety

Posted by keirperry on October 21, 2012 at 12:45 AM Comments comments (0)

Did You Know... 6 Facts about Clothes Dryer Exhaust Safety According to manufacturer’s specifications and local codes, dryer ducts must be a minimum of 4 inches in diameter and at least as large as the dryer outlet.

Unless otherwise specified by the dryer’s manufacturer or local code, the developed length of the dryer’s exhaust duct should not exceed 25 feet. (When determining developed length, each 90 degree turn adds 5 feet to the actual length.)

  Dryer vents shall be independent of all other systems and terminate outdoors, not into a chimney, crawl space, or attic.

  The outside dryer exhaust vent’s termination hood should be equipped with a back draft damper to ensure that the exhaust doesn’t come back into the home. 

  Metal transition ducts should be used between the dryer and the exhaust duct.

  Flexible transition ducts should never be used in an attic, a crawl space, or inside a wall.

Heating Systems

Posted by keirperry on October 17, 2012 at 10:35 AM Comments comments (0)

Heating systems are usually trouble-free and easy to maintain. Efficient operation is a function of good regular maintenance. No matter what type of furnace you have, there are several things you can do to keep your heating system in top condition. In this article, we will tell you how to service and troubleshoot your furnace, regardless of the type.

When a heating or cooling system malfunctions, any one of its three components -- heat/cold source, distribution system, or thermostat -- may be causing the problem. If the furnace or air conditioner doesn't run, the malfunction is probably at the source. The furnace or air conditioner may have lost power.

Fuel may not be reaching the unit. If the fuel is gas or oil, it may not be igniting. If the furnace or air conditioner turns on but the warm or cool air isn't reaching the rooms of your home, the problem is likely to be the blower or distribution system. And a faulty control, or thermostat, could keep the system from turning on or could cause it to turn on and off repeatedly. Whatever the problem, start with the simplest procedures. In most cases, all it takes is patience and common sense.

Before you start work on a heating or cooling system, take these preliminary steps:

Make sure the unit is receiving power. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel.

Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually located at a different panel near the main entrance panel. Some furnaces have fuses mounted in or on the unit.If the unit has a reset button, marked RESET and near the motor housing, wait 30 minutes to let the motor cool, then press the button. If the unit still doesn't start, wait 30 minutes and press the reset button again. Repeat at least once more.If the unit has a separate power switch, make sure the switch is turned on.Check to make sure the thermostat is properly set.

If necessary, raise (or, for an air conditioner, lower) the setting 5º.If the unit uses gas, check to make sure the gas supply is turned on and the pilot light is lit. If it uses oil, check to make sure there is an adequate supply of oil.There are also several important safety factors to remember:

Before doing any work on any type of heating or cooling system, make sure all power to the system is turned off. At the main electrical entrance panel, trip the circuit breaker or remove the fuse that controls the power to the unit. If you're not sure which circuit the system is on, remove the main fuse or trip the main circuit breaker to cut off all power to the house.

Some furnaces have a separate power entrance, usually at a different panel near the main entrance panel. If a separate panel is present, remove the fuse or trip the breaker there.If the fuse blows or the circuit trips repeatedly when the furnace or air conditioner turns on, there is a problem in the electrical system. In this case, do not try to fix the furnace.

Call a professional service person.If the unit uses gas and there is a smell of gas in your home, do not try to shut off the gas or turn any lights on or off. Get out of the house, leaving the door open, and immediately call the gas company or the fire department to report a leak. Do not reenter your home.

To keep your heating and cooling systems in top shape, have them professionally serviced once a year. The best time to have a furnace serviced is at the end of the heating season. Because this is the off-season, you can often get a discount, and service is likely to be prompt.

Have your air conditioner checked at the same time.The heat/cold source is the most complicated part of the heating and cooling system, and it's the part most likely to suffer from neglect. Problems in this area may also lead to distribution problems. Whatever heat/cold source your system uses, give it regular attention to prevent problems.

Dirt is the biggest enemy of your home's heating and cooling system. It can waste fuel and drastically lower efficiency. Dirt affects all three basic components of the system, so cleaning is the most important part of regular maintenance. Lubrication and belt adjustment at the furnace are also important.

To keep your system working properly, there are some simple general procedures you can follow. To start, learn how to clean your furnace.

How To Clean a FurnaceDirt is the biggest enemy of your furnace. It can waste fuel and drastically lower efficiency. Dirt affects all three basic components of your furnace, so cleaning is the most important part of regular maintenance. The three parts of the furnace should be cleaned: the filter system, the blower, and the motor.

The furnace filter should be replaced or cleaned at the beginning of the heating season and about once a month during periods of continuous use. To check the filter, take it out and hold it up to the light. If it looks clogged, replace it with a new filter of the same type and size regardless of the length of time it has been used.

Clean blower assembly, belts and pulleys to blower, and motor housing. Cleaning blower is critical if furnace has a squirrel-cage fan, because openings in this type of blower often become clogged with dirt. To clean blower, remove panel that covers filter to gain access to blower or panel on front of furnace. This panel may be slip-fit on hooks or held by series of retaining screws. Access to inside of blower is usually gained by sliding out fan unit, which is held on track by screws.

If power cord to fan assembly is not long enough to permit fan unit to slide all the way out, disconnect cord. Mark wire connections first so you'll be able to reassemble unit correctly. With toothbrush, clean each fan blade and spaces between blades. Then, with vacuum cleaner hose, remove all dirt and debris loosened by brushing. Vacuum belts and pulleys. Wipe motor housing clean to prevent heat buildup in motor.

How To Lubricate a Furnace MotorTo keep the motor running cool, make sure it's clean. Most motors are permanently lubricated and sealed by the manufacturer and, therefore, require no further attention. Some motors, however, have covered oil ports above the bearings near the motor shaft.

If the motor has oil ports, it should be lubricated annually. Apply two or three drops of 10-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to each port. Do not overlubricate. If the blower shaft has oil ports, it, too, should be lubricated annually, following the same procedure.

You'll probably have to remove an access plate to get at the ports. If the blower has grease cups instead of oil ports, remove the screw caps that cover the cups and fill the cups with bearing lubricant, which is available at automotive and hardware stores.

How To Replace a Furnace BeltOn furnaces that have a blower, inspect the belts on the blower and motor when you clean and lubricate the furnace. If the belts are worn or frayed, replace them with new ones of the same type and size. Here's how to replace a worn belt:




Smoke Detectors and Smoke Detector Location

Posted by keirperry on October 8, 2012 at 8:35 AM Comments comments (0)

Smoke Detectors and Smoke Detector Location   

A properly installed and maintained smoke alarm is the only thing in your home that can alert you and your family to a fire 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Industry experts at the NFPA have determined that in a typical home fire, you only have three minutes to escape.   There are many different brands of smoke alarms available on the market, but they fall under two basic types: ionization and photoelectric. Dual sensor smoke alarms are combination smoke alarms that combine ionization and photoelectric into one unit.

Ionization smoke detection is generally more responsive to flaming fires.  Ionization-type smoke alarms have a small amount of radioactive material between two electrically charged plates, which ionizes the air and causes current to flow between the plates. When smoke enters the chamber, it disrupts the flow of ions, thus reducing the flow of current and activating the alarm. Sources of these fires may include flammable liquids or paper burning in a waste container. Most smoke alarms in use are of this type.

A photoelectric type smoke alarm consists of a light emitting diode and a light sensitive sensor in the sensing chamber. The presence of suspended products of combustion in the chamber scatters the light beam. This scattered light is detected and sets off the alarm. Sources of these fires may include cigarettes burning in couches or bedding.

Placement of smoke detectors is also very important.  Smoke detectors should be installed in each sleeping room, outside each separate sleeping area in the immediate  vicinity of the bedrooms and on each additional story of the dwelling , including basements and habitable attics but not including crawl spaces and uninhabitable attics.   In new construction, minimum requirements are typically more stringent. All smoke detectors must be hooked directly to the electrical wiring, be interconnected and have a battery backup.

If the smoke alarm is battery powered, it will run on either a disposable 9-volt battery or a non-replaceable 10-year lithium battery.  These batteries must be tested on a regular basis and, in most cases should be replaced at least once each year (except for lithium batteries).


new toilet?

Posted by keirperry on October 2, 2012 at 12:55 AM Comments comments (0)

Thinking of getting a new toilet?


Handy info from CMHC  



Handy home care tips

Posted by keirperry on September 29, 2012 at 9:40 AM Comments comments (0)

Home Care

- To clean aluminium frames around your windows, rub the area with salt and wipe it clean with a wet cloth.

- To remove the bad odour from your fridge, put four teaspoons of mustard seeds in a cup of water and place it in the fridge. Likewise, placing a dish with two teaspoons of instant coffee powder or a sliced lemon should also provide similar results.

- To make your leather shine brilliantly, rub it with thoroughly with a lemon peel.

- To get rid of stuck bubblegum, spread peanut butter on the area and rinse it. The grease in the peanut butter will remove the gum effectively.

- To remove stains from utensils, add a little bleaching powder to a tub of water and soak the utensils in it for a while. Wash them again with dishwashing liquid later.

- Greasy vessels and cooking pots can be cleaned easily with a little vinegar.

- Rub copper and brassware with a slice of lemon dipped in salt. Follow up by washing the vessels with water. They will regain their shine.

- Use aluminium foil or metal covers from strips of used tablets/capsules for cleaning greasy vessels.

- Tea and coffee stains can be removed by rubbing salt over them. Rinse it off after a few minutes.

- Clean your kitchen sink by scrubbing it with a polythene scrub dipped in dishwashing liquid. Scrub in circular motion to obtain great results.

- To clean China ware, add a little baking soda to warm water and rinse them after a few minutes.

- Used toothbrushes will come handy for scrubbing between the tiles on the kitchen and bathroom walls.

- To prevent ants from venturing onto your kitchen work area, wipe it thorougly with a solution made of one part of vinegar mixed with three parts of water.

- To prevent roach infestation, keep dried orange peels in the areas. Soon, they will vanish!

- If there is a spillover in your oven, pour a mixture containing five parts of salt and one part cinnamon onto the area. Soon, the salt will absorb the spill and the cinnamon will remove the bad burnt odour. Once the oven has cooled, remove the mixture with a spatula and wipe the area with a wet cloth.

- To clean your old metal strainer, heat it over the gas flame and brush it clean after it cools.

- Used toothbrushes can be used from cleaning combs and your computer's keyboard.

- To clean the blocked pipe of your kitchen sink, pour down a mixture consisting of a handful of soda bicarbonate and a cup of vinegar and leave it for an hour. The chemical reaction will dissolve the blockage. Ensure that you pour sufficient water to clean the sink after an hour.

- Leather upholstery can be cleaned efficiently with equal parts of vinegar and water.

- Placing camphor tablets/balls in certain parts of the kitchen will prevent ants from infesting.

- If you want to carry liquid food with you while travelling, seal the lid with dough made form wheat flour.


DIY Pre-Winter Roof Inspection

Posted by keirperry on September 18, 2012 at 10:35 AM Comments comments (0)

Don't wait until the first snowfall or heavy rain before finding out if your roof needs tending to - not only will it be more difficult, but it will also be less effective. The following information will guide you on what to look for during a self roof inspection, in order to know what to take care of before winter hits.

*Note: if it is unsafe to walk on your roof, perform the roof inspection from the ground using binoculars.

1. Leaks this is the first sign of deterioration. They can appear as stains in the house or wet areas under the roof deck or attic.

2.Excessive amounts of mineral granules covering shingles, gutters, or downspouts this indicates extreme weathering, and insufficient amounts will appear as black spots.

3.Missing shingles replace them or re-roof if there are several missing.

4.Curled up and cracked shingles caused by UV rays, this will result in loss of water resistance and consequently, additional leaks.

5.Splits, ridges, eroded areas, punctures, separating seams and punctures for membrane roofing, this will require you to inspect roof methodically.

6.Flashings and other penetrations such as chimneys check to see that they are properly sealed.

7.Drainage ensure that they are free of debris so that they won't obstruct water flow. Check the downspouts for blockage and ensure that the water runoff is at a reasonable distance from the building.

8.Loose, inadequate, or poorly maintained fasteners with  metal roofing, this may develop into leaks if not fixed.

9.Trees, bushes, and flora prune back all plants for healthy re-growth in the spring, and remove all dangerous tree limbs and potentially problematic parts of any flora.

Water alarms

Posted by keirperry on September 12, 2012 at 8:20 PM Comments comments (0)

What are water alarms? Water alarms are designed to detect water and will simply sound an alarm, the sensors will give an early warning sign that a leak needs urgent attention. It does not however, stop the leak. Instead, it warns us about leaking pipes, defective water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines, leaky basmentor  floods. A water alarm is also used to detect even the least amount of water  thereby giving us ample time to move our belongings or furniture to safer – and drier – areas of the house.

You can install your water alarm in leak prone areas such as behind the washing machine, near bath tubs, toilets, dishwashers, water heaters and beneath sinks. It can also be used as a basement water alarm in case of flooding and for early leak detection. Almost all potentially harmful water flow starts from a small leak that has gone undetected. Placing water alarms in these specific areas will help prevent or at least limit the damage.

Water alarms do not only detect water leaks but also alert you when there is higher than normal moisture in the area that can lead to mold and mildew. Mold and mildew can lead to health problems and cause odors that are hard to control, and if it goes unnoticed it might cause a problem that is likely to incur significant costs.

There is also another type of water alarm that a professional plumber can install in your plumbing fixtures. This type of alarm will not only alert you if there is excess moisture in the area, but will also automatically turn on pipe heaters when the temperature drops down or drops below a certain level. Consult your local plumbers about this particular water alarm option.